I te ao o te horology papai, ehara i te mea he taputapu noa iho te wati hei whakaatu i te wā; he mahi toi o te hangarau, te toi, me te taonga tuku iho. Mō ngā kaikohi, ngā kaihokohoko, me ngā kaitiaki waitohu, kua roa te kaupapa matua o te whakaatu i ēnei mahi toi ataahua i roto i te huarahi e whakahonore ana i tā rātou mahi toi. Nā tēnei tono kua whakaoho i tētahi whanaketanga nui i roto i te rāngai motuhake engari he mea nui o ngā tūnga whakaaturanga wati, me ngā kaihanga inaianei e whakakotahi ana i ngā rauemi kounga teitei, te hangarau hou, me te hoahoa motuhake hei tautuhi anō i te whakaaturanga o ngā wati papai ki te ao. I te tau 2024, ko te mākete tūnga whakaaturanga wati o te ao, he $1.2 piriona te uara e ai ki te Pūrongo Ahumahi Taputapu Horology (HAIR), kua rite ki te tipu 7.8% ia tau, nā te whakaoranga o te hokohoko papai i roto i te toa me te mākete kaikohi e puāwai ana mō ngā wati tawhito me ngā wati putanga iti.
I runga i tēnei āhuatanga, kua rongonui te umanga i te kamupene taputapu papai o Huiterangi, a Horizon Display Solutions, me te whakarewatanga o tana kohinga matua hou, arā, ko ngā tūnga whakaaturanga mataaratanga Atelier Series, he raina i hangaia hei whakakotahi i te whai huatanga mahi me te ataahua o te whare taonga. I huraina i te Whakaaturanga Mataaratanga me ngā Whakapaipai Baselworld ā-tau i te marama o Poutū-te-rangi 2024, kua tere te noho a te Atelier Series hei kōrero mā ngā porowhita o ngā tohu taima, me te whakanui i ngā kaiwhakahaere waitohu, ngā kaikohi, me ngā kaihoahoa hokohoko mō tōna aro ki ngā taipitopito me te whakapau kaha ki te tiaki i te pono o ngā wati e pupuri ana i roto.
Mō ngā tekau tau, i whakaarohia ngā tūnga whakaaturanga wati he mea noa iho—he tūnga pupuri wati i hangaia hei tautoko i ngā wati mō te hoko, mō te rokiroki rānei. Engari i te mea kua neke te mākete taonga papai ki te hokohoko wheako me ngā wheako kohikohi kua whiriwhiria, kua tino whanake te tūranga o te tūnga whakaaturanga. Me whakatutuki e ngā tūnga kounga teitei o ēnei rā ngā hiahia e toru: te tiaki i te wati mai i ngā kino ā-tinana me ngā kino ki te taiao, te whakaatu i ngā āhuatanga hoahoa mō ngā kaihoko pea, mō ngā kaiwhaiwhai rānei, me te whakarite ki te tuakiri waitohu o te wati e whakaatuhia ana e ia.
Ka aro atu a Horizon's Atelier Series ki ngā pou e toru mā te hangarau auaha me te mahi toi. He turanga wōnati pango, he māpere Itari rānei i hangaia mō te pumau me te kaha ki te tāpiri atu ki ngā whakaotinga whakarewa o ngā wati papai, me te kore e taupokina. Ko ngā wāhi e pā ana ki te wati me te turanga he hiako muka-iti tino ngohengohe, hypoallergenic - i kawemai mai i tētahi whare hanga kiri whānau i Tuscany - e ārai ana i ngā karawarawa i runga i ngā pouaka wati me ngā poroporo, me te whakarato hoki i te pupuri haumaru, kore-paheke.
Ko te mea e wehewehe ana i te Atelier Series i ōna hoa whakataetae ko tana pūnaha whakahaere taiao whakauru, he āhuatanga kāore i te kitea i roto i ngā whakaaturanga mataaratanga kaihoko, hokohoko rānei. He waeine whakamaroke iti, marino, e huna ana i roto i te turanga o te tūnga, e pupuri ana i te taumata haumākū whanaunga o te 45-50%—te awhe tino pai mō te tiaki i ngā nekehanga mataaratanga, ngā whitiki hiako, me ngā wāhanga whakarewa. He huringa kēmu tēnei mō ngā kaikohi i ngā āhuarangi haumākū, i te wā e taea ai e te makuku te waikura i ngā taputapu mataaratanga, te pakaru wawe rānei o ngā whitiki hiako, me ngā kaihokohoko e whakaatu ana i ngā mataaratanga mō ngā hāora me te kore he mana whakahaere haumākū o tētahi whare pupuri taonga teitei.
"Neke atu i te 18 marama i pau i a mātou ki te rangahau i ngā ngoikoretanga motuhake o ngā wati papai i roto i ngā tautuhinga whakaaturanga," te kī a Clara Voss, te tumuaki hoahoa o Horizon, i roto i tētahi uiuinga motuhake ki tā mātou whakaputanga. "Ehara i te mea ko tōna nekehanga, ko ōna rauemi rānei te uara o tētahi wati; engari ko tōna roa me tōna ataahua. I hangaia te Atelier Series hei kaitiaki mō taua uara, ehara i te mea hei pupuri noa iho. Ko te pūnaha whakahaere haumākū he urupare ki ngā urupare mai i ngā kaikohi i kī mai ki a mātou ko ā rātou taonga tino nui e pāngia ana e te kino o te taiao ina waiho ki runga i ngā tūnga tuku iho."
Kei roto hoki i te raupapa ngā rama LED ka taea te whakarite, me ngā tautuhinga kanapa me te pāmahana tae ka taea te whakahaere mā te taupānga waea atamai. Kua whakanohoia ngā rama ki te whakamārama i ngā taipitopito o te mata o te mataaratanga, te karaihe, me te pouaka, me te kore e hanga he kanapa kino, he whakaata rānei—he amuamu noa tēnei mō ngā whakaaturanga hokohoko whānui e horoi ana i ngā taipitopito ngawari o te hoahoa o te mataaratanga. Mō ngā waitohu e whakahaere ana i ngā huihuinga pakū-ake, i ngā tirohanga tūmataiti rānei, mā te kaha ki te tukutahi i te rama puta noa i ngā tūnga maha ka hangaia he whakaaturanga kotahi, rumaki hoki e whakarei ake ana i te wheako o te kiritaki.
Te Whakatutuki i ngā Hiahia o tētahi Mākete Kanorau
Te ao whānuiwhakaaturanga mataaratangangā ketemākete tūehara i te mea kotahi; e toru ngā wāhanga motuhake e arohia ana: ngā kaihokohoko papai, ngā kaikohi tūmataiti, me ngā tīma hokohoko waitohu (mō ngā huihuinga me ngā whakarewatanga hua). He motuhake ngā tono o ia wāhanga, ā, kua whakaritea e Horizon te Atelier Series kia pai ai te mahi ki ngā wāhanga e toru.
1.Mō ngā kaihokohoko papai, he mea nui te wāhi, ā, mā te hoahoa ā-pūrere o te Atelier Series ka taea te whakarārangi me te whakarōpū i ngā tūnga hei whakanui ake i te wāhi o te kaute me te kore e whakaiti i te ataahua. He tino rongonui ngā kōwhiringa turanga māpere i roto i ngā toa hokohoko papai, nā te mea e hangai ana ki te hoahoa ā-roto iti, papai o ngā toa pēnei i a Rolex, Patek Philippe, me Audemars Piguet. Ka whai hua anō hoki ngā kaihokohoko i te hoahoa iti o te tiaki o te tūnga—me mahi noa te wāhanga whakamaroke haumākū i ia rua tau, ā, he ngāwari te whakakapi i ngā arai hiako microfiber, ka whakaiti i ngā utu tiaki mō te wā roa.
2. I tēnei wā, kei te piki haere te rapu a ngā kaikohi takitahi i ngā otinga whakaaturanga hei whakapaipai kāinga. Ko te hoahoa huatau, māmā hoki o te Atelier Series, ko te tikanga ka taea te whakanoho ki runga i te tēpu, i te whata rānei o te kaikohi hei mahi toi mahi, kaua hei taputapu rokiroki āhua ahumahi. Ko ngā tauira turanga wōnati, me ō rātou momo rakau tūturu me ngā rārangi maeneene, kua noho hei tino pai i waenga i ngā kaikohi e whakatairanga ana i te whakakotahitanga o te hoahoa whai hua me te hoahoa o roto. He maha hoki ngā kaikohi e whiriwhiri ana i te ratonga whakairo ritenga e tukuna ana e Horizon, e āhei ai rātou ki te tāpiri i te ingoa tauira o te wati, te rā i hokona ai, te tohu whaiaro rānei ki te turanga o te tūnga, ka huri hei taonga whakamaumahara whaiaro hei tāpiri i te wati.
3. Mō ngā tīma hokohoko waitohu, ko te ngāwari ki te kawe me te urutau o te Atelier Series ngā mea nui hei hoko. He mama ngā tūnga (3.2 kg noa iho te taumaha o ngā tauira turanga māpere, ko ngā tauira wōnati he 1.8 kg) ā, kei roto hoki ngā pouaka haere kua whakaritea kia rite ki te hiahia, kia pai ai mō ngā huihuinga pakū-ake, ngā whakaaturanga hokohoko, me ngā tirohanga tūmataiti a ngā kiritaki. Ka taea te whakarite i ngā pūnaha rama me te haumākū e whakahaerehia ana e te taupānga mō ngā taiao rerekē, kia pai ai te whakaatu i ngā mataaratanga ahakoa kei te wāhi koraha maroke, kei te tāone takutai makuku rānei te huihuinga.
I roto i tētahi rangahau take tata nei, i whakamahia e te waitohu mataaratanga papai a Omega ngā tohu 24 Atelier Series mō tana whakarewatanga o te kohinga Seamaster 2024 i Dubai, he tāone e mōhiotia ana mō tōna haumākū nui me te kanapa o te rā. I tiakina ngā mataaratanga e te pūnaha whakahaere haumākū o ngā tūnga mai i te kino o te makuku, i te mea ka tapahia e te rama LED whakarerekētia te kanapa o te wāhi hei whakaatu i te mata puru rongonui a Seamaster me te anga uku. I kōrero te kaiwhakahaere hokohoko ā-rohe o Omega, a Karim Al Farsi, he pikinga 22% te whakauru a ngā kiritaki ki ngā mataaratanga i whakaritea ki ngā whakarewatanga o mua e whakamahi ana i ngā whakaaturanga paerewa, me te kite a ētahi kiritaki whai rawa nui i te manaaki me te aro ki ngā taipitopito i roto i te whakaaturanga hei take i roto i ā rātou whakatau hoko.
Te Oranga Tonu me te Rauemi Matatika: He Pou Matua o te Waitohu
I tēnei wā e whakatairanga ana ngā kaihoko me ngā pakihi i te oranga tonutanga, kua whakauruhia e Horizon ngā tikanga matatika ki roto i ia wāhanga o te hanga o te Atelier Series. Ko te nati pango e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā tūnga i ahu mai i ngā ngahere kua whakamanahia e te FSC i te Tai Hauāuru o te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa o te US, kei reira ngā ture mō te tapahi rakau hei whakarite i te whakatipu ngahere me te tiaki i ngā nohoanga. Ko te māpere Itari i keria mai i tētahi whare i Carrara e whakamahi ana i ngā mīhini hiko hei whakaiti i ngā tukunga waro, ā, ko ngā takai katoa mō te Atelier Series he mea hanga mai i te 100% kāri hangarua, kāore he wāhanga kirihou.
Kua mahi tahi hoki a Horizon me te Swiss Watch Conservation Foundation (SWCF), e koha ana i te 2% o ngā hoko katoa a Atelier Series hei putea i ngā kaupapa e whakaora ana i ngā nekehanga mataaratanga tawhito me te tautoko i ngā mahi ako mō ngā kaihanga mataaratanga taitamariki. Kua pārekareka tēnei whakapau kaha ki te whakahoki mai i ngā taonga ki ngā kaikohi me ngā waitohu e aro nui ana ki te taiao, he tokomaha o rātou e whakatairanga ana i ngā hononga ki ngā kaihanga taputapu e hangai ana ki ā rātou ake whāinga pumau.
"Ehara te oranga tonutanga i te kupu hokohoko mā mātou; he kawenga," te kī a Markus Berger, te Tumu Whakarae o Horizon. "He herenga motuhake tā te umanga papai ki te tiaki i te mahi toi me ngā rauemi taiao, nā te mea e ahu mai ana ā mātou hua i ngā mea e rua. Mā te whakamahi i te rakau FSC, ngā rauemi iti-tukunga, me te tautoko i te tiaki mataaratanga, kei te herea e mātou te Atelier Series ki tētahi kaupapa nui ake o te tiaki i te taonga tuku iho o te horology mō ngā reanga kei te heke mai."
Te Tauhohenga Ahumahi me te Tirohanga Mākete
Kua puta te ngangau nui i roto i ngā rāngai hokohoko mataara me ngā wati papai nā te whakarewatanga o te Atelier Series, ā, kua hipa ake ngā hokonga wawe i ngā matapae a Horizon mā te 35% i te hauwhā tuatahi o te tau 2024. Ko ngā kaihokohoko i Āhia me te Middle East, e rua o ngā mākete tino tere te tipu mō ngā wati papai, ko rātou ngā kai-whakamahi hihiri rawa atu, me ētahi toa nui e tuku ana i ngā ota nui hei whakakapi i ā rātou whakaaturanga tawhito i mua i te wā hokohoko hararei 2024.
E matapaetia ana e ngā kaitātari ahumahi ka piki haere tonu te arotahi ki ngā whakaaturanga mataaratanga motuhake, hangarau-teitei i ngā tau e haere ake nei, e rua ngā au matua e akiakihia ana: te pikinga o te uara o ngā mataaratanga tawhito (e matapaetia ana ka eke te mākete mataaratanga tawhito o te ao ki te $15 piriona i te tau 2027, e ai ki te Vintage Watch Collectors Association) me te tono mō te hokohoko wheako i roto i ngā whanonga kaihoko i muri i te mate urutā. I te mea ka nui ake te haumi a ngā kaikohi ki ngā taonga onge, utu nui, ka rapu rātou i ngā otinga whakaaturanga e tuku ana i te taumata tiaki rite tonu ki te whare pupuri taonga, i te mea ka hiahia ngā kaihokohoko ki ngā whakaaturanga e hanga ana i ngā wā e maumaharatia ana, e tika ana mō Instagram hei kukume i ngā kaihoko i roto i te toa i roto i te ao matihiko e piki haere ana.
"Kei te pōuriuri te rārangi i waenga i te 'rokiroki' me te 'whakaaturanga' mō ngā wati papai," te kī a Thomas Rein, he kaitātari matua i HAIR. "Kāore ngā kaikohi e hiahia ana ki te pupuri i ā rātou wati ki roto i te pouaka haumaru; e hiahia ana rātou ki te pārekareka ki te tirohanga, ā, e hiahia ana ngā kaihokohoko ki te huri i ngā whakaaturanga hei taputapu kōrero. Ko ngā hua pēnei i te Atelier Series e whakakotahi ana i te tiaki, te ataahua, me te hangarau kei te tino tūnga ki te whakamahi i tēnei panonitanga. E matapaetia ana ko te wāhanga utu nui o te mākete tūnga whakaaturanga wati ka nui ake i te tere tipu o te mākete whānui mā te 2-3 ōrau i roto i ngā tau e rima e whai ake nei."
Mō ngā kaihanga iti ake i roto i te ao, kua whakatakotohia e te angitu o te Atelier Series he pae hou mō te auahatanga, e akiaki ana i ngā kaiwhakataetae ki te haumi ki ngā āhuatanga motuhake kaua ki te whakawhirinaki ki ngā hoahoa whānui. Kua pānuitia kētia e ētahi waitohu ngā mahere ki te whakauru i te mana whakahaere āhuarangi, i ngā rama ritenga rānei ki roto i ā rātou raina hua o te tau 2025, e tohu ana i te nekehanga whānui ake o te ahumahi ki ngā whakaaturanga mahi ake, e aro ana ki te kiritaki.
Te Anamata o te Whakaaturanga Kete Mataaratanga: Te Hanumitanga o te Hangarau me te Mahi Toi
I a Horizon e whakarite ana ki te whakawhānui i te Atelier Series me tētahi raina hou o ngā tūru e pai ana mō te haere (e aro ana ki ngā kaikohi e rere pinepine ana e hiahia ana ki te whakaatu i ā rātou wati i roto i ngā rūma hōtēra, i ngā waka rererangi tūmataiti rānei), kei te tūhura hoki te kamupene i ngā hononga mahi tahi me ngā waitohu whare atamai hei whakauru i ngā tūru ki roto i ngā pūnaha aunoatanga kāinga. Whakaarohia he tūru whakaatu e hono ana ki te mana whakahaere āhuarangi o te whare, e whakarerekē ana i tōna rama i runga i te wā o te rā, ā, e tuku whakamōhiotanga ana ki te waea a te kaikohi mēnā ka piki ake te taumata haumākū ki runga ake i te awhe tino pai—koinei te heke mai e mahi ana a Horizon.
I roto i tā mātou uiuinga, i tohu a Voss i ēnei whanaketanga, me te kī "ko te rohe e whai ake nei mō ngā whakaaturanga mataaratanga ko te hononga. E hiahia ana ngā kaikohi ki te aroturuki i te āhua o ā rātou mataaratanga mai i tawhiti, ā, e hiahia ana ngā waitohu ki te waihanga i ngā wheako maeneene e hono ana i te tinana me te mamati. Ko te Atelier Series te taahiraa tuatahi o taua haerenga."
Mō te hunga e aroha ana ki ngā mataaratanga papai, ko te whanaketanga o te tūāpapa whakaaturanga he tohu i te whakapau kaha o te umanga ki te whakahonore i te toi o te horology. Ko te wati he mutunga o ngā rautau o te hangarau me te hoahoa; me whai whakaaro nui te tūāpapa e pupuri ana i a ia. E ai ki te whakaaturanga a te Atelier Series, ehara i te mea he taputapu noa iho ngā whakaaturanga mataaratanga pai rawa atu—he toronga atu ki te mataaratanga tonu, he kaitiaki o tōna taonga tuku iho, ā, he hoa mahi ki te tiaki i tōna ataahua mō ngā whakatipuranga e haere ake nei.
I roto i te mākete e whai tikanga ana ngā taipitopito katoa, ko tetūnga whakaatu mataaratangangā ketekua puta mai i te atarangi hei wāhanga nui o te pūnaha tohu taima papai. Ā, me ngā kaihanga auaha pēnei i a Horizon e ārahi ana i te kaupapa, he mārama ake te heke mai o te whakaaturanga o ngā mataaratanga, he whai hua ake, ā, he rite tonu ki ngā uara o ngā wati e whakaatuhia ana e ia i mua.
Wā tuku: Hakihea-16-2025
